On her site, American journalist and author Jacqueline Friedrich talks about French Malbec and Château du Cèdre.
Read the article.
Jacqueline wrote:
"In The Wines of France (p 331) I said that I had never tasted the
Verhaeghe’s deluxe cuvee – GC – of Cahors. The 2000 was presented at a
tasting last spring but, alas, it was corked. So a bottle was sent to me
and, last night, with autumn well and truly in the air and a nice pork chop
in the fridge, I decided to taste it.
Chiefly malbec – average age of vines, 48 years – grown on chalky terraces,
the wine ferments in open 500 litre barrels and ages gently in those barrels
for another 24 months.
Now, as grape varieties go, malbec’s star was destined to rise and its
ascent finally seems to be happening. But most of the attention goes to New
World malbecs. This has not gone unnoticed in Cahors – which is now
promoting its “black wine” by the name of its grape rather than its
appellation – though the 2000 GC is a fine ambassador for both.
It’s a sleek panther of a red, mouthwatering, silky, suave and polished yet
with a warm country soul. Initially it invites you in with aromas and
flavors of sweet spices – primarily cinnamon and mace – and light balsamic
notes as well as the accents of oak in the vanilla range. It’s surprisingly
fresh for a red this rich, with appetizing bitter undertones and bass notes
of eau de vie de quetsch. As the wine aerates, flavors of prune, black olive
and black cherry emerge.
Now here’s the rub (actually two rubs): 7500 bottles were produced and none
are left for sale. And the vintage now on sale – 2005 – is not cheap at
around 61 euros.
The regular cuvee, at half the price, is better value and always delicious.
I recall the wonderfully structured, richly berried 2000 that I drank with
immense pleasure at Pimpernel’s, a restaurant in Bath. (You’ll find a review
of that excellent restaurant in Article Archives/Bath.)
But is value the only consideration? (That’s rhetorical, of course not.) The
regular cuvee is a yummy meal partner and a super delicious wine. Cuvee GC
takes center stage. And if it shares that stage with perfectly roasted duck
(crisp skin, succulent meat) and potatoes mashed with the best butter you
can find, then, my friends, you’ve got a little taste of heaven.